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Showing posts with label Knife Care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Knife Care. Show all posts

Aug 19, 2008

Japanese Knife & Sword Care

Japanese Knife & Sword Care

You may have just purchased a very fine Japanese Knife or Sword. Now, how do you take care of it?

The Japanese sword is a product of 13th century technology. As such, its care presents special attention.

Blade:
The blade is hand ground, clay tempered and handle polished piece of high carbon steel. I clean the blade very well and heavily oil it before delivery. There is a lot of oil on the tang and under the habaki. You must keep oil on the blade (or tuff cloth), except when viewing or showing the blade. It was very wet in old Japan, and their swords have little rust. Do not use gun oils or vegetable oils. Clove oil is the best and lasts for a long time. Do not "scrub" with cleaning powder or abrasives... just lightly wipe. Re-oil before replacing the blade. If you need to sharpen the blade, I recommend sending it back to the maker. Because the steel in the middle of the blade is soft it will scratch. Try to form the habit of sliding the blade out on its spine with as little touching of the wood and steel as possible.

Handle (Tsuka):
Handles loosen over time and use. Drive the pen in a bit further or rotate the peg in its hole and reinsert with a hammer tap. Do not try to remove or play with the wrap - it is a done deal.

Blade collar (Habaki):
The habaki is made for each blade and is a perfect fit. Because of this fit, they scratch (and always will). It's is part of the 13th century thinking of Japanese sword and knife smiths. I lightly polish mine out at the shows with a jewelers rag. Do not buff them, the habaki slides into a buffalo horn/micarta collar and locks the blade. This piece can expand or contract according to the weather. You can fix this eaily but wait for a few months until this settles in. A very light filing with a jewelers file will relieve tightness or a slight wipe of crazy glue on the throat will tighten it.

Sheath (Saya):
Most of my saya are rare wood and coated with many layers of cyanoacrylate glue. I have used it for over 15 years with only a few failures. I can repair most chips and scratches. The material has a UV inhibitor that keeps the color of most woods. There are some woods that darken with age, other will not. You should only use furniture wax on the sheath. The sageo (cord mount) is for tying the sword to the belt, not for swinging the sheath.

Rapid quick draw is about the worst thing you could do besides polishing the blade on a buffer. The throat of the saya is delicate and not made for quick draw fantasies.

It is a please to see some of the old swords and knives that I have made. Frequently, they are in perfect condition. This helps me know my method of making and caring for Japanese knives and swords works. Source: Article by Scott Slobodian:http://www.knifeart.com/japaneseknife.html

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Knife Care. Knife Maintenance How To Video

Knife Care. Knife Maintenance How To Video

This is a good 10 minute video on how to clean and maintain your knives. Step by step instructions is presented




Best Knife Online Store offers all types of knives for the knife collector: including old favorites like pocket knives, hunting knives, folding knives, throwing knives, tactical knives, as well as the most recent items updated electronically every morning.

Aug 18, 2008

Knife Care and Maintenance

Knife Care and Maintenance

1. To keep your knife in the best possible working condition, follow the points outlined below.

2. To take excellent care of your knife collection, follow the points outlined below.

3. To clean or not to clean your vintage knives, read and then decide by the item below.

4. To take excellent care of your kitchen knives, follow the points outlined below.

Knife Care and Maintenance: Keep the blades dry and wipe fingerprints and moisture off, after use, with a soft all cotton cloth or chamois. This is particularly important with blades of high carbon steel. Tarnishing or oxidation is a normal property of carbon steel and cannot be avoided. This normal oxidation or tarnish actually helps protect the knife from rust and will have blue gray tones, rather than rust red tones. Applying a couple drops of any quality oil or silicon treatment to the blade with a soft all cotton cloth will provide excellent protection. A good wax is also excellent protection.

Check your knives often for possible trouble spots. If you see tarnish or oxidation develop with reddish tones, this is the start of rust and should be cleaned as quickly as possible. If any stains appear, try removing the stain or tarnish with a standard metal cleaner or polish. Blades of most stainless steels used in knives are not rustproof but are rust or stain resistance. So therefore stainless steel blades should still be kept clean and wiped dry after use, especially many of the new high carbon stainless steels like ATS-34, and CMP-T440V.

Folding knives require special care.

When not in use, store knives and leather sheaths separately because leather does absorb moisture and can rust your blade. Tanning salts and acids present in the leather can rust or tarnish steel. Keep leather sheaths limber with leather preservative or mink oil. What is green verdigris?

Folding knives require special care. Keep the locking device on folding models clean and free from debris. An occasional drop of light oil at each joint will assure smooth blade action in opening and closing. Each blade should click open smoothly and snap shut. This opening and closing is what the old timers called "Walks and Talks" well.

Keep knives sharp. A sharp knife is safer to use. A sharp knife requires minimal effort to cut and therefore has less a chance of slipping. The secret of proper sharpening is to do it regularly. Use a sharpening steel, or other mechanism frequently. If you have difficulty maintaining an edge on knives, have them professionally sharpened.

Never sharpen blades on a power-driven grinding wheel, which can burn the temper from the blade. This is the type of high-speed grinder found in many home shops.
Moisture and fingerprints are the
prime villains to avoid.

Remember that knives are cutting tools and blades are very sharp. Therefore, please exercise caution when handling your knife. And, never use your knife as chisel, pry bar, screwdriver or hammer. If your knife is a good one then a chisel, pry bar, screwdriver or hammer will cost less than a knife replacement anyway. Do not pound on the back (spine) of the blade. Keep sharp knives well away from the reach of young children.

Always cut with the edge moving away from you. Knives can have sharp razor edges so handle all knives with care and respect. Do not use for throwing unless specifically produced for that purpose.

If you carry a pocket knife in your pocket with coins or keys you will scratch the handle and bolsters. The same is true if you put all your knives in a cardboard box stacked one atop the other, they will all get scratched, which reduces their value.
The storage room for your knife collection
should be low in humidity and cool.

Knife Collection Care: Remember to take excellent care of your collection, as you are the curator during your lifetime for future generations to enjoy. Moisture and fingerprints are the prime villains to avoid. Check your collection periodically and keep your knives in a dry location. A good rule to follow is to make sure the room that you store your knives in is comfortable for you to stay in, then it is more likely to be a good storage place for your knives. The storage room for your knife collection should be low in humidity and cool. Avoid areas with a high relative humidity or a great shift in temperatures. (Relative humidity can be high in attics and basements, especially if they are unheated or uninsinuated. Moisture from condensation can come into contact with your knives if they are stored in such areas.) If you live where it is humid use silica gel or other desiccants (a drying agent) to help keep your knives dry by placing them in a strong plastic bag that has no holes and can be closed tight. Use desiccants for short-term storage only. Make an asserted effort to wipe your knives at least once a month. Your collection can lose value very quickly if you allow your knives to deteriorate from lack of care and maintenance.

To clean or not to clean your vintage knives:
First, a word of caution: If you think your knife has significant value, consult a professional. Many valuable objects (knives included) are damaged each year by people using the wrong preservation or cleaning techniques. If you are going to clean your own knives, practice on common knives until you get the hang of things.

Kitchen Knife Upkeep: Good kitchen knives can be a major investment, but if properly cared for they can last a lifetime. Cleaning knives after each use will keep them in the best condition and promote food safety. Mild soapy water cleans without damaging and washing by hand only takes a minute and really takes care of your knives. Never use a dishwasher for cleaning your good knives (kitchen or other wise). Doing so could possibly remove the temper from the edge and render the blade soft so it will not hold an edge. When cleaning your knives make sure that the blades don’t touch or bump other objects. The water jets in the dishwasher can knock your knives into other hard objects. Remember that the precision ground cutting edge may be damaged if it strikes other cutlery, pots or pans.

Always use an appropriate cutting board

Always use an appropriate cutting board in the kitchen to get the most out of the sharpness of your knives. Use an cutting board material easy to clean and that is soft. We recommend natural wood or synthetic chopping boards like soft polyethylene. Never use glass, ceramic, metal, marble or any other hard surface as a cutting board as this can have an damaging effect on your knives. When chopping foods that have a tough or waxy exterior (such as bell peppers), chop with the waxy side down, as the more tender inside flesh is easier on knife blades.

Knives require a safe dry storage place, and a knife block is perfect for storing knives. Knife blocks will prevent injury and protect the blade from being damaged.

Cross-contamination is a major food-safety concern. Bacteria transferred from knives and work surfaces, such as cutting boards, to other foods can lead to food poisoning. Mild soapy water cleans and sanitizes if you wash your hands, the cutting board and the knife. We advocate thorough and consistent cleaning for knife upkeep and food-safety!

Keep your wood cutting board clean and oil as needed. Do not use vegetable oil as it will go rancid. Use mineral oil or oil sold to be safe to protect and seal your wood cutting board.
Knife Care and Maintenance article above contributed by Copyright ©Byron Rogers All rights reserved.
Article by Copyright ©Byron Rogers, visit http://KnifeWebGuide.com


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